Changing My Perception of Texas: Inks Lake State Park

George Bush worshipers, gun lovers, religious fanatics, pickup truck drivers, corrupt oil tycoons.

Those are a few of the Texas stereotypes I brought with me to Inks Lake State Park last month. I forgot about all of them by the end of the week.

Campsite #87

Campsite #87

After trolling the San Antonio-to-Austin circuit for the second time, I ventured a bit off the beaten path to explore some lesser-known parts of the Lone Star State. Inks Lake State Park is within a two-hour drive from both cities, and just north of Longhorn Cavern State Park.

The park takes up 1,201 acres along the Colorado River and has been open to the public since 1950. We chose this campground over nearby Pedernales Falls State Park because of the tent site area and the Internet situation. If I didn’t make a living working at campgrounds, I would shun Internet access entirely. But alas, something has to fund the nightly fees (which were about $20 per night, by the way).

Cliff jumpers at Devil's Waterhole

Cliff jumpers at Devil’s Waterhole

My absolute favorite places to camp are next to flowing water. We were able to secure a campsite next to the lake for the week, which was mighty convenient for frequent kayaking. Since we have an inflatable kayak, a trip on the water usually entails about 15 minutes of hand pumping. However, our Inks Lake campsite had enough space to leave the kayak sit out inflated each day.

Check out the campsites between space 85 and 91. These have lots of space and nice sunset views, although they tend to get crowded with RVs during peak times. There’s some small, but cutesy, looking cabins a few yards away too if you’re a little less hardcore.

Island picnic via kayak

Island picnic via kayak

Although the lake isn’t enormous, there are a few good kayak routes to check out. One leads to Devil’s Waterhole, where low-key thrill-seekers take turns cliff jumping. There’s also a small island off the coast of the pavilion on the northeast end of the park. This is a great place to kayak to for a secluded lunch or swim to, if you’re not worried about your feet touching the ground.

There’s really only one hiking trail inside the park boundaries, and that’s the Pecan Flats Trail. There are some unexpectedly nice vista points along the trail and a good number of cacti to scope out. Parts of the trail are severely overgrown, so you might have to turn around and head back if the insects are driving you nuts. Take a look at this trail guide to brush up on plants you’ll see along the way.

One of the coolest part about the Texas State Parks is the free fishing. Never have I encountered another recreational area that lends you fishing poles and tackle for free. As someone who occasionally (and impatiently) dips a pole in the water but who has never actually caught a fish, “free” is essential.The park staff isn’t all that concerned about you keeping the gear for a few days either. I was simply asked to bring the pole back at the end of the week when I check out. The park general store sells live bait for a few dollars, as well as souvenirs and snacks.

That general store also rents out kayaks, canoes, and paddleboats by the hour for about $15-20. Since we have our own kayak, we decided to take a paddleboat out on day for a lunch break from work. There’s no way around it – paddleboats are really dumb. However I justified the experience by smuggling a couple beers on board and declaring the peddling to be an adequate leg workout for the day.

I felt simultaneously more work-productive and more relaxed at Inks Lake State Park than anywhere else in a long time. Since I’ve returned home to my home base in Chicago, I haven’t been able to find anywhere near the motivation or focus I had while working and playing here. Not only was Inks Lake a breath of fresh air for my confidence and my state of mind, but it was also instrumental in changing my perception about the state ofTexas.

Pre-Shutdown Weekend at Padre Island National Seashore

Tent site above the beach

Tent site above the beach

Undoubtedly, there are thousands of blog posts flying around in a political uproar over the federal government shutdown. Although there’s a political science degree hanging on my wall, this is not a political blog and it never will be.

But as I sit here on Shutdown Day 2, one particular closure hits close to home.

Sunset stroll

Sunset stroll

 

I spent last weekend at Padre Island National Seashore near Corpus Christi, Texas. I packed up for home on Monday, as scheduled, which happened to be the day before the Shutdown. I must admit I’m having a hard time believing that the beautiful place that I called home for four days is now barricaded and vacant.

Pavilion setup - #24

Pavilion setup – #24

I wish I could provide you with a link to the campground I stayed at, but as with all of the national parks, the Padre Island website has been replaced with this ominous closure message:

Due to the lapse in appropriated funds, all public lands managed by the Interior Department (National Parks, National Wildlife Refuges, Bureau of Land Management facilities, etc.) will be closed. For more information, FAQs, and updates, please visit www.doi.gov/shutdown.

 

Malaquite campground

Malaquite campground

So until those idiots pull their heads out of their asses, I guess you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Malaquite Campground is the main campground inside the national seashore boundaries, and it’s situated along the dunes of the Gulf of Mexico.

It’s a semi-primitive campground with fifty sites: eight are tent-only and twenty-six can accommodate RVs. You can’t make advance reservations here, so you have to take your chances and show up to see what’s available.

Sites cost $8 per night here, but you do have the “luxury” of flush toilets and cold-water pump showers. In actuality, these are the most luxurious campsites because the other camping areas have zilch for amenities.

Bird!

Bird!

The best place to kayak is Bird Island, but head to the windsurfing area and not the boat launch. You can put in anywhere along the shallow shore, and the waves are much calmer than over at Malaquite.

You can also camp over here at Bird Island, which has a couple pit toilets and a kayak rental shop, but not much else. Be prepared to shell out $5 at the front gate to do any of the above at Bird Island.

If you’re looking for a deal, you can camp for free at North Beach, but you’re pretty far from the facilities if you’re shy about pooping outside. It’s also totally acceptable to drive ON the beach, so your tent could very well come in contact with a Ford F-150.

Footsteps in sand

Footsteps in sand

When I asked a park ranger for hiking suggestions, I was reminded that there are seventy miles of undeveloped coastline to tread along. Silly me. Turns out, this was my favorite part of the park. The sand wasn’t too hot, the waves refreshing, the beaches uncrowded, and the water clean(ish).

Apparently, there are 380 species of birds here, but I can’t recall seeing more than four or five. You can find lots of crabs in the sand and along the shore here. They come in a variety of colors and sizes, and I even had the pleasure of chasing one of out of my shower with a flashlight!

Crab!

Crab!

There’s no denying that the mosquitoes were horrendous. Spray yourself with insect repellent ’til it seeps from your pores, but it won’t even make a difference. It’s also crazy windy here, especially when setting up a tent, so don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Rogue tree in the gulf

Rogue tree in the gulf

Padre Island National Seashore felt like one of the last undeveloped places of its kind. It could have easily turned into another Miami Beach, with sprawling hotels, cocktail bars, and tourist shops.

However, this place was a true example of nature at its finest. To me, there are few finer things in life than waking up on the sand to the sounds of crashing waves and the first rays of morning light.

Political commentary aside, I truly hope that this and the other national parks will be reopened soon so we can continue having these experiences and loving the good parts of our country.

Sunset on Padre Islanad

Sunset on Padre Islanad

The First (of Several) Texas State Parks: McKinney Falls, South Austin

When choosing a campground, you can usually go one of two ways: private or government. State and federal park campgrounds tend to be cheaper, but often at the expense of no privacy and no amenities (i.e. Internet). Private campgrounds come with a higher price tag, but often aren’t tucked away in the most beautiful places.

Camp site #15

Camp site #15

However, McKinney Falls State Park proved to be a little bit of the best of both worlds. Located in South Austin, this 726-acre park has been open to the city-dwelling public since 1976. It’s named after Thomas F. McKinney, who was one of Texas’s first colonists and made a fortune off of racehorse breeding, flour mill production, and slave labor.

Spiders as neighbors

Spiders as neighbors

Campsites range from $15 for walk-ins to $24 for spaces with water and 50-amp electric. The sites book up fast, even after Labor Day, so we secured the very last one for the weekend. All the sites are separated from each other pretty well, so you won’t feel cramped next to neighbors with monstrous RVs.

We were initially worried about camping the first night because it was raining, there were flood warnings, and the campground is near Onion Creek. However, each site has a “tent pit” that’s outlined with logs and we didn’t experience a single pool of water. Some sites shade trees and others have none, so choose wisely based on your tendency to sunburn.

Hiking trail map

Hiking trail map

The campsites have a wide open feel and there are plenty of cactus to make you feel like you’re camping in the desert. There are a couple visitor centers in the park and the staff will kindly talk your ear off if you let them. The grounds are incredibly well-maintained for a government facility and I had no complaints about the shops, bathrooms, or site grounds.

We went hiked a few of the McKinney trails, which are okay or biking but definitely better for hiking. Since “hill country” isn’t really all that hilly, the trails are pretty easy but still scenic. One pit stop along the way is “Old Baldy,” which is a 500 year old, 103-foot tall cypress tree along the trail.

There are two waterfalls, upper and lower falls, that are easy to get to and worth a stop. They aren’t very tall, but gazing into a waterfall is always relaxing, regardless of their magnitude. Due to recently heavy rains, we weren’t able cross over the falls and access the other side of the trails.

Suspicious footprints

Suspicious footprints

Texas state parks don’t require a fishing license to fish and much to my surprise, they loan out fishing poles for free. It’s a totally laid back transaction and some locations even have fake bait to give out too. We settled on an inopportune fishing spot under some shade trees and spent more time untangling the the line than actually casting out. It was a learning experience, that’s for sure.

One of the coolest things about McKinney Falls was its proximity to Austin. It was only about a twenty minute drive from downtown, which made it easy to sightsee during the day and camp at night. However, I never felt like I was right outside a large city while I was camping here: no traffic noise, no bright lights, and plenty of nature in all directions.

Tangled in fishing line

Tangled in fishing line

My final recommendation is to spring for a Texas State Park Pass if you’re going to camp for more than a couple days. It sucks parting with $70, but it starts saving you money on about day #3 of camping. The pass gets you out of paying the $6+ daily park fee, gives you 50% off your second night at any state campground, and gives you 10% off any supplies you buy at their stores.

Before this trip, beautiful parks were the last thing that came to mind when I thought of Texas. Believe it or not, there are 93 state parks here, and I look forward to visiting as many of them as possible during my trip.

Brew-Fueled Serenity Outside Austin: The Jester King

If you want a good brewery recommendation, ask a guy running the food truck. Anyone who’s been to Austin knows there are a ton of breweries in the area. But since most their brews don’t make it across the Texas border, it’s hard narrowing down your options if you’re only got a few days.

The Jester King

The Jester King

I recently tagged along to my boyfriend’s conference outing in San Antonio and found myself waiting for free grub in food truck lines outside the Alamo. To pass the time, we struck up a conversation with a friendly food truck guy about local brews, and promptly received a recommendation for the Jester King.

Although I visited Austin a couple years prior, I wasn’t as obsessed with breweries then as I am not. So we took his suggestion and ran with it…all the way to brew retreat bliss.

Patiently waiting for beer

Patiently waiting for beer

The Jester King is as “out in the middle of nowhere” as you can expect with an Austin city zip code. The roads leading to it are hilly, and it’s a surprisingly scenic drive.

After initially missing the entrance and turning around in a ditch, we spotted the unassuming sign that leads down a ranch-style road. This ranch, however, is filled with rows of cars instead of livestock, and it looks like it will be really busy from the parking lot.

Testing the taste buds

Testing the taste buds

You’ll pass by Stanley’s Farmhouse pizza, which is worth a stop, but do yourself a favor and find beer first. The brew house on the hill looks huge, but the tasting room is actually pretty quaint. It’s just a bar, with no place to sit and no tables to lean on.

But the service is great, and the guys working bar are both friendly and know their stuff. The parking lot led me to believe I’d be waiting in a long line for a taste and shouting over a crowded bar to put my order in. Although the tasting room had a steady stream of tasters, it was a far cry from annoying or cramped.

Tree top chandelier

Tree top chandelier

I still can’t stop raving about Black Metal. It’s a Russian imperial stout, and it weighs in at a whopping 9.3%. The beer has a predictable black-brown color, strong aspects of chocolate, peppery overtones, and a hint of coffee accents. It’s strong, it’s smooth, and it has a warming boozy mouth feel from start to finish. I had a sample, then a pint, and finally a bottle to go. Yep, it was that good.

My second favorite brew was Mad Meg, which is a saison farmhouse ale and golden in color. Apparently Mad Meg was a peasant woman from Flemish folklore who led an army of women to pillage hell. While that’s pretty hardcore, the beer was pleasantly smooth with citrus influences, herbal spices, and an aftertaste unique to this type of beer.

Mmm...pizza goes in here

Mmm…pizza goes in here

Otherwise, I tried the Noble King and the Wytchmaker, neither of which left a lasting impression, and Boxer’s Revenge, which was far too sour for my taste. I understand that sour beers are the new rage with the “kids” these days, but I can’t manage to jump on the sour bandwagon just yet.

Although I was a big fan of Jester King’s beers, I fell in love with their brewery set up even more. In my opinion, this is what a brewery should be: plenty of outdoor seating space, laid back vibe, a stage for live music, simple food on site, manageable crowds, and a festive atmosphere that makes you never want to leave.

As the sun began to set, chandeliers hung from tree branches lit up to illuminate picnic tables scattered through the rolling hills. The brewery was run well, without being pretentious, family-friendly, without crawling with kids, and situated in a peaceful atmosphere that temps you to be social.

Devour in 3...2...1...

Devour in 3…2…1…

I should also mention that Jester King, as well as most of Austin, is really dog-friendly. Dogs aren’t only tolerated here, but they are expected and admired. Dog ownership sounds a lot more manageable to me if you can bring your pooch to the pub.

We ordered a pizza at Stanley’s before they closed at 9pm; it came out quick and although it wasn’t huge, it was pretty delicious. Softly playing classic rock radio provided the accompaniment, but apparently they sometimes host live music on Saturday nights. If you like Jester King’s labels, which are pretty clever, you can pick up a poster print of one for $20 to $25.

On the drive back to the campground from Jester King, I started pondering how different some breweries are from one another. As I mentioned, ones like this always rock my socks off. But the footwear of other brew fanatics probably flies off at the sight of warehouse district or gastropub competition.

I’ll save that debate for another article (coming soon!) and continue riding the wave of Black Metal and the mellow vibe I took with me from the Texas countryside.

A Low-Maintenance Chick’s Guide to Long-Term Camping

I like to think of myself as a pretty low-maintenance kind of chick. I can put up with less-than-ideal road trip conditions, and I don’t mind skipping showers for a few days if I’m doing something cool.

Camping Amérique Montréal Campground

Camping Amérique Campground, Montreal, Canada

However like most women, I have a gazillion health and body products crammed on my bathroom shelves back home. When I reluctantly return to home base after a month of living on the road, I find myself using face creams and eyeliners I’d completely forgotten about.

While living out of a tent and the back of a Jeep for extended periods of time, I’ve learned a thing of two about what to bring along and what to leave behind in the medicine cabinet. Even low-maintenance chicks, like me, tend to over-pack, so here’s some miscellaneous advice to help you avoid repeating my mistakes.

Bring This Stuff

  1. Face wash & lotion – You might think you can get by with combined body/face wash, but once your eyes start stinging, you’ll thank me. Your skin condition will inevitably suffer in the outdoors over time, so stock up on mini hotel lotions when you can and shove a bunch in your bag.
  2. Dry shampoo – Showers can be hard to come by and this stuff can make you feel a bit less greasy.
  3. Makeup foundation – Your skin will likely break out and look like crap within a week. Although you’ll likely spend most your days makeup free, sometimes you just feel better glancing at an evener complexion in the mirror. Feel less silly about wearing it by bringing a foundation with SPF 15 or 30.
  4. Floss and mouthwash – You might think flossing and swishing are a hassle, but with infrequent brushing, your teeth will get really nasty really quick. Without the distractions of television and abundant social plans, you’ll have more time to floss in the evenings, whether it’s in the campground bathroom or your car’s rear view mirror.
  5. Prescription sunglasses – Contact lenses and living in the outdoors don’t mix very well. Your hands will often be dirty and your eyes will be stinging from blowing dust in the wind. Prescription sunglasses are expensive, but if your eyes suck and you spend a lot of time outdoors, they’re worth it.
  6. Bandanas – Just get used to it…your hair isn’t going to look very good very often. My hair is naturally wavy, meaning it’s always frizzy when I’m living outdoors. My advice is to start a bandana collection. Not only do bandanas keep the hair out of your face, they also make you look hardcore and they’re a fun souvenir to seek out, especially at national parks.
Champlain Adult Campground, South Hero, Vermont

Champlain Adult Campground, South Hero, Vermont

Leave This Stuff Behind

  1. All hair tools – As hard as it is to leave the blow dryer at home, trust me…you won’t use it. If you’re serious about outdoor activity, your hair will usually be pulled back or tucked inside a hat of some sort. Outlets can be a sparse commodity in campgrounds, and the other campers will silently judge you for being vain.
  2. Nail polish and remover –  Before leaving on a long road trip, remove all of your fingernail and toenail polish. It will soon chip away and bother the crap out of you. I’ve never seen a travel-size bottle of nail polish remover, so save room in your bag and avoid potential acetone-soaked spills.
  3. Eye makeup – It’s common knowledge that leaving eye makeup on when you sleep is a bad idea. You won’t have a nice sink to wash your face in if you’re backcountry camping, so skip the eye makeup and leave the remover at home too. Having long lashes on a hiking trail isn’t worth a nasty eye infection.

See, that’s not so bad! I even gave you twice as many things to take than things to leave behind just so you aren’t turned off by the idea of long-term camping!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut seriously, living in the outdoors for more than just a weekend here and there is a really rewarding experience that clues you in on things you didn’t even know about yourself (or your travel companion, for that matter). For example, I learned that I’m cool with camping until it hits twenty degrees. Once the mercury dips into the teens, I’m ready to check into a hotel. While my boyfriend is more okay with cold temperatures, he can’t stand a damp tent or temperatures over eighty-five degrees.

We all have our breaking points. But with the essential (not excessive) comforts of home, we can feel a little more prepared to tackle the challenges that bring us to closer to them.

Oh for Pete’s Sake, Put Down that iPhone!

Next time you visit your favorite park, notice how many people are trying to hike a trail (and not fall on their faces) while texting. Next time you travel to a beautiful vista point, notice how many people are frantically snapping iPhone pictures of the view rather than actually looking at it. Next time you’re camping, notice how many tents are illuminated by iPads playing Netflix episodes off the campground’s Wi-Fi. Technology has its place in the world, but that place is most certainly not in the outdoors.

I recently read an interesting article about a bunch of neuroscientists who were sent out to spend a week in southern Utah rafting the San Juan River, hiking tributary canyons, and camping along the way. Sounds like a rough gig, right? The whole point of this adventure was to investigate whether remote natural retreats can actually reverse the harmful effects of heavy technology use in the human body. The scientists had no cell reception, no outlets to plug in their laptops, and no distractions from the pure beauty overwhelming them from every direction.

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Overuse of technology is so widely accepted these days that we look at people who don’t have smartphones like freaks of nature, instead of lovers of nature. We have become a culture of obsessive email checkers and arbitrary Facebook posters with a frantic need to be entertained every moment of the day. Unplugging is obviously more challenging for some people than others. If you’re a self-diagnosed technology junkie, your best bet it to travel off the grid so that nature makes the decision for you. Before you unplug, look up your voice and data provider’s coverage map and choose trip destinations as far away from the coverage as possible to avoid temptation.

Next time you stare into a roaring campfire, direct your mind away from the day’s events and turn it into a blank slate. Next time you sit on the pier and watch waves crash into the shore, relate the water’s fluidity to your own transient state from one life phase to the next. We adults are setting a really crappy example for the young whipper-snappers, who don’t even understand a life that doesn’t revolve around a LCD screen.  It’s now or never, people.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo what did those guys in Utah conclude from their little adventure? Well for one, they confirmed that the drumbeat of data creates a false sense of urgency that affects our ability to focus. They also confirmed that the data takes up valuable brain memory that could be put to better use with creative endeavors that inspire original thought, rather than a regurgitated version of what someone else already came up with. So next time you go outdoors, leave your devices at home, take a breath of fresh air, and force yourself to look outside above and beyond yourself. Your mind, body, and soul will thank you, and it doesn’t take a neuroscientist to figure that out.

Art from the Road

I am an absolutely terrible artist. You may have heard about a project that I was a founding member of back in 2008, Free Crappy Portraits. The purpose of Free Crappy Portraits (FCP) was to draw strangers in public (with or against their will) and/or from the Internet based on photos they submitted. We kept our clients’ expectations low and never disappointed!

The only art class I took in college was art history. I signed up for a park district painting class a couple years ago and the instructor simply stopped showing up. Although I am a lost cause to the art world, I found my place creating really bad portraits for strangers at no cost.

Today, I carry around a sketch book wherever I go on my travels. Although I my technique is embarrassing  and I have no sense of perspective, I love to draw the versions of things that I see along the road. My recent travels to South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana were no exception. Here are just a few of the awesomely terrible works of road trip art from my sketchbook.

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I call this one “Mt. Gnomemore”. After walking around Mt. Rushmore with my trusty travel gnome, I felt that the roles should be reversed. I think that this is a truly brilliant idea and after Googling it, I am convinced that it is unique to my creation. This may just be my ticket to fame and fortune.

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Created with oil pastels, this is my “Welcome to Montana’ drawing. As we crossed the border from Wyoming into Montana, we were greeted with cows on the side of the road, lakes and rivers in the foreground, mountains in the background, and adorable cabins along the roadside. A night of peaceful camping awaited us across the border.

photo (23)

This colored pencil sketch is called, “Creatures in the Campground.” We camped at Mammoth Campground in Yellowstone National Park for five nights. Due to the winter season, it was the only campground open at that time and the temperatures often dipped below 20-degrees.

Bison and elk regularly roamed about the campground, incredibly close to our tent and Jeep. Although I was initially terrified to sleep next to these wild creatures (who would surely attack at any moment), I eventually came to trust that they wouldn’t mess with me if I didn’t mess with them.

photo (26)

Prior to starting this road trip, we bought an inflatable kayak and all the necessary accessories. Although the temperatures were almost always cold and the winds strong, one particular day in the Big Horn National Forest of Wyoming proved to be perfect for boating.

Our first kayaking attempt in the Big Horn Canyon was successful. We didn’t tip over, the kayak didn’t get punctured, and no one got hypothermia. This above photo depicts a painting that I completed while staying in a remote, snowed-in cabin at 9,000+ elevation.

Although I take travel notes and write throughout my trips, my crappy artwork helps me to remember things the way that I first saw them. Although my drawings and paintings could easily be mistake for a five-year-old’s, I love flipping through my sketchbook and making fun of myself from time to time while reminiscing.

Even if you’re an avid photographer or writer, give it a try. What you see in your mind’s eye might provide a more lasting memory than any snapshot could show or words describe. For whatever reason, it does for me.

Working in Weird Places

I shutter to think about the number of days, hours, and years I’ve spent sitting at a desk and staring at a computer screen. While my current work situation enables me to work from pretty much wherever I please (Internet-depending, of course), my bank account still depends on my eyes to be fixed on the screen and my fingers to type. The difference, however, is that I’ve ditched the desk.

I hate desks. Sure, there’s plenty of ergonomic fancy designs that would probably remedy my persistently stiff neck, the idea of a desk reminds me of the conformity, rigidity, and structure I’m running away from.

Happy Holiday Campground Arcade Room, Rapid City, SD

Happy Holiday Campground Arcade Room, Rapid City, SD

While traveling through the Black Hills of South Dakota, we stayed at an awesome campground with a lame name: Happy Holiday RV Resort in Rapid City, South Dakota. During this phase of our westward journey, the weather was inconsistent, yet tolerable.

Some days reached 60-degrees and campground-wide Wi-Fi made outdoor picnic table working possible. On rainy and cooler days, the campground’s arcade park was our refuge. Although most of the power outlets were broken and the couches reeked of stale smoke, the arcade room was warm, quiet, and just random enough to be creative in.

Happy Holiday campsite with monkey assistant

Happy Holiday campsite with monkey assistant

Working in the outdoors has always been a dream of mine, even if it still is on a stupid computer. Even when temperatures dipped into the 20’s and the wind gusts got crazy, I found myself incredibly willing to make it work. Pull on some more layers, plop on a hat, and duck under a pavilion to keep your laptop from getting destroyed by the downpour.

Once our westward journey reached Montana, the weather took a drastic turn for the worse. When initially planning this trip, I wondered why everything around Yellowstone National Park was closed in April. After seventeen days of dealing with this weather, I guess I finally understand why.

Happy Holiday pavilion in the rain

Happy Holiday pavilion in the rain

On one particularly unbearable day, we ventured into Bozeman, Montana to check out the city. After spending only a short amount in Bozeman, I quickly added it to my “I could maybe possibly see myself living here for awhile someday” list.

The Bozeman Public Library proved to be a great place to get some work done on a snowy Montana day. The Wi-Fi worked great, there was plenty of room to spread out, and the facility was nice and new.

Bozeman Public Library with a pink monkey

Bozeman Public Library with a pink monkey

Libraries are always preferable to coffee shops and restaurants with Wi-Fi for working because they eliminate that nagging obligation/temptation to buy something. When you’re traveling on a budget for a month, every unnecessary latte adds up. However, the libraries in some tiny towns have totally inconvenient hours.

For example, the library in Gardiner, Montana is only open on Tuesdays from 10am-5pm and 6-8pm and then Thursdays from 6-8pm. How do you promote literacy with only two weekdays of book access?

Tumbleweed Cafe, The Only Place with Internet in Gardiner, MT

Tumbleweed Cafe, The Only Place with Internet in Gardiner, MT

Regardless, sometimes you just have to suck it up and pay for a couple of food items to get work done. The Tumbleweed Bookstore and Cafe was essentially the only place in all of Gardiner that had free Wi-Fi. Fortunately, coffee and tea only cost $1 there and Montana has no sales tax. That’s a small price to pay to get some freelance paychecks to roll in.

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I hate myself as I’m writing this, but McDonald’s also has really reliable free Wi-Fi. I couldn’t resist buying a grilled chicken wrap and M&M McFlurry while working in the Livingston, Montana McDonald’s for over six hours on yet another snowy day. The staff never hassled us to leave either because they had fallen in love with my stuffed pink monkey. Thanks, Ginger.

Before setting out on this road trip, we tried to do our research about places to find Wi-Fi on the road. However, the results are sketchy and daily itineraries change. For backup, we invested in a Verizon 4G Jetpack, although the fees get ridiculous if we exceed the data usage plan.

I feel the need to create an “Encyclopedia of Road Trip Wi-Fi” with a list of places recommended for working on the road. Laundromats often have Wi-Fi also, such as Gardiner Laundry next to Yellowstone Gifts & Sweets. If you’re on the road for awhile, you probably have laundry to do anyway. If you don’t, fake it and fuss with a machine every once in awhile.

Gardiner Laundry, Closest Washing Station to Yellowstone

Gardiner Laundry, Closest Washing Station to Yellowstone

If you’re simply on vacation, avoid the unplug your devices, enjoy nature, and avoid these Wi-Fi spots at all costs. However, if your ability to eat and find shelter depends upon the Internet, keep knocking things off your to-do list so you can extend the road trip as long as possible. That’s what I’m doing!

Backpacking the Shawnee National Forest

The concept of “backpacking” always sounded like the epitome of adventure to me. But while the self-sufficiency and the minimalist nature appealed to my senses, my practical side questioned how I could actually find a path and survive the lifestyle. On a whim, I dropped a pretty penny on a 65-liter REI backpack. It sat in my apartment for weeks and I would admire how “fun” it looked to use someday.

My boyfriend had a backpacking trip or two under his belt. Although we’ve been avid campers and hikers for the past year, we’ve never strayed far from having a car full of supplies nearby. Although we’d romanticized month-long backpacking excursions around Europe and The Pacific Crest Trail, we were realistic enough to know we should start small.

Not surprisingly, the options for outdoor adventure in the Midwest are sparse. However, The Shawnee National Forest, located at the border of Illinois and Kentucky, offers some commendable options for nearby adventurers. Because of the close proximity and since it consists of relatively flat terrain, my boyfriend and I chose Shawnee for our first attempt at backpacking.

We departed on a rainy Thursday evening in October to make the six-hour southbound drive from Chicago. After a night’s stay in a cheap motel, we woke bright and early and headed to the Lusk Creek Wilderness. Since there was incredibly little information published online about backpacking in this area, we stopped at the Vistiors’ Center (located at 50 Highway 145 South, Harrisburg, Illinois) to purchase some maps.

To our relief, there were some great maps for sale in the Visitor’s Center. A couple less detailed maps trial maps are posted for free download on the USDA website as well.

With maps in hand and backpacks stuffed to the brim, our starting point was the Indian Kitchen Trail Head. My backpack felt dreadfully uncomfortable almost immediately . The straps dug into my hips, my shoulders ached, and I couldn’t help but hunch over. After adjusting the pack several times with minimal relief, I realized that I would just have to deal with it and get used to it.

From Indian Kitchen, we hiked to Bowed Tree Crossing and then towards Natural Bridge. We were backpacking on equestrian trails, so we had to be on the constant lookout for horse poop. This totally reminded me of growing up in an Amish town and going for late night runs in the “buggy lanes”.

On the way to Natural Bridge, we temporarily lost our bearings and ended up on the outskirts of the wilderness area. This was pretty clear because there was a private residence visible in the distance.

After some uphill backtracking and pushing through uncut forests, we found our way back on the trail to Natural Bridge. It was perfect hiking weather – 60’s and cloudy – but the clouds were starting to roll in and the forecasted rain seemed to be approaching.

The rain began almost as soon as we reached Natural Bridge. We took a couple pictures and contemplated our next move. Our next move was pretty much decided for us as the sprinkles turned into a torrential downpour. Fortunately, we had scoped out a couple decent spots to set up camp along the way and had one particular spot in mind. We frantically pulled the tent gear from our packs and set the tent up in record speed.

It was about 5:30pm, but we were confined to the tent for the rest of the evening due to the rain. Although we had hiked less than eight miles, I was definitely feeling the strain of my first backpacking trip already.

We had packed several freeze-dried meals and used a Jet Boil Stove to make ourselves a hearty meal of Mountain House New Orleans Style Rice with Shrimp and Ham and Blueberry Cobbler. These were surprisingly delicious!

The remainder of the waking hours were spent reading iPads and playing a dice/card game called Pass the Pigs. Except for the occasional sound of a locomotive engine horn, the night was completely silent.

Although quite cold, the sun was shining the next morning when we awoke. Our attempts to dry out the tent and rain fly were pointless, so we shoved the wet materials into our packs and set off for a short hike to Secret Canyon. This was probably the most impressive and scenic spot along the whole trail. The canyons formed a sort of amphitheater that curved around a large space under an expansive forest area. If only we would have known about these cavern retreats during the previous day’s rain storm! What a great natural shelter these would have provided!

We had to retrace our steps from the previous day to get back to my parked Jeep. On our first day, we only saw one other person on the trail….an older local gentleman on his horse. We saw the same gentleman on our second day as well and he advised us that there was a group of equestrian travelers up ahead.

We encountered these travelers at Owl Bluff. Three generations of a family dressed up in cowboy hats and chaps were having lunch in the clearing when we arrived in the area.

“Are you lost?” one older gentleman asked with a laugh.

“No, not really” we replied. ” with map and compass clearly in sight.

“Good! ‘Cause we are!” the gentleman exclaimed with another hearty laugh.

Although they had the same map that we did, we pointed out the path that we had traveled from and the approximate distances. They still seemed a bit uncertain, but were satisfied enough with our advice to wish us on our way. As we parted, one of the women cautioned us about a river up ahead and laughed about how we planned to get through it.

Although our hike was coming to an end, little did we know that one of the most challenging parts was still ahead. We’d already had to cross a few small creeks along the way, but with little difficulty. We’d take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and tip toe across the rocky creek bottom to get to the other side.

Our hiking boots squished down the trail from Owl Bluff, covered in mud and horse poop built up from the previous day’s rainstorm. As we came around a bend, we saw what the woman at Owl Bluff was laughing about. The river was probably five times as wide as the previous creeks we had crossed. The water was freezing cold, it was flowing at a moderate speed, and we couldn’t see the bottom. Mental notes were made about investing in waterproof hiking boots as soon as possible.

There was no way around it, so we went through it. We moved slowly, cautiously, and with outstretched arms to avoid tipping over with the large backpacks and getting all of our supplies wet. After a good amount of time, we both finally reached the other side. At this point, we realized we were nearly out of drinking water. This wasn’t a huge deal because we only had a half day’s hike ahead of us. We had also packed some water purification tablets and wanted to test if they actually made natural water drinkable.

I scooped some yellow-brown water from the river that we had just crossed in our bare feet into my empty bottle and popped a couple tablets inside. The sun began to come out as we continued on the hike, and this provided to be yet another day with perfect hiking weather.

Without getting lost and with no additional obstacles (except for ample amounts of mud and horse poop), we made it back to the trail head. I was so relieved to see my blue Jeep in the distance.  My first backpacking trip was complete and it was a success! Exhausted, I plopped down on the ground and checked the river water in my bottle. It was still yellow-brown. I dumped it out.

In total, we backpacked almost 20 miles. We prevailed through rainstorms, getting lost, trail-side cooking, river crossings, and each other during our hike. While beautiful, Shawnee National Forest was merely a baby-step in the direction of hardcore backpacking. Regardless, I learned a lot throughout this baby-step and I can’t wait to plan a teenager-step backpacking trip as soon as the winter passes.

First Time Fishing

It was Memorial Day weekend and there was an important mission at hand. Catching a fish.

Neither my boyfriend or I had ever held a fishing pole before, but this was the weekend that would all change. We’re outdoorsy….we camp, we hike, so it just seemed  like the right thing to do. We drove from Chicago to the Chain o’ Lakes State Park and set up camp at Site #6. Fortunately, there was a Wal-Mart nearby so stocking up on fishing supplies was a no-brainer.

We picked up the second cheapest pole on the shelf, a small tackle box with a bunch of strange and colorful devices, and a bucket of live earthworms. The state park had several fishing piers, and most them were occupied by at least a couple fathers with their kids. We picked the empty end of one of the piers because we figured the marshy and shallow shoreline wouldn’t be a great place to cast a line.

According to the Internet, these fish were supposed to be in this particular lake: bluegill, large-mouth bass, walleye, crappie, muskie, northern pike, bullhead, catfish and yellow and white bass. Yeah right.

My ex_magicianever-patient boyfriend sat with that fishing pole for a seemingly endless amount of time. I had anticipated my ADD to kick in, so I brought along a sketchpad and colored pencils to make crappy art and distract myself. The earthworms would occasionally get yanked off the hook and my boyfriend would reel the line back in to re-bait. To be a good sport, I pretended to help bait the hook a time or two. To save some bait, I attempted to cut the earthworms  in half with a rock to make them last longer. While I’m sure this was amusing to watch, it created more mess than conservation.

After a couple hours, we had to give up. The nearby fisherdads exclaimed “What? You’re done already?!” and “Ya didn’t catch anything? I’ve caught at least five already!”. I hated them so much. They weren’t doing anything special. They weren’t putting any more effort into their catches and their pole didn’t look any more fancy than ours. Yet, our mission was failing.

Before the sun started to set, my boyfriend suggested relocating to another pier to see if fish in another area liked us any better. I continued making really bad art and snapping pictures of the scenery to pass the time. Not more than twenty minutes passed before he started yelling. Something was pulling on the line! Some fish was dumb enough to eat the mangled worm hanging on our hook!

I threw my sketchpad on the ground and furiously snapped pictures…hoping to get a shot of his first fish before it decided it didn’t really want to eat that earthworm. The fish stayed on the hook as he reeled it in and we shrieked with excitement. In all honesty, it was a pretty small fish. But after a day of sitting around catching nothing, this was about as exciting as it got.

Prior to this trip, my boyfriend talked scaling the fish he caught and cooking them for dinner on our mini camp grill. This particular fish was not exactly big enough to eat, and I was secretly relieved. The idea of fish guts squirting all over the grill didn’t exactly make my mouth water.

He ended up throwing the fish back into the lake. As I sit here typing this story, I wonder if that fish ever regained consciousness because we definitely played with it while it dangled from the hook for quite some time. (Cue bad joke about  plenty of fish in the sea?) I held the fishing pole a few times as well to see if I’d have any luck, but to this day I have still never caught a fish.

We packed our fishing gear back in my Jeep and drove back to the all too familiar Wal-Mart. Going straight to the seafood section, we found individually-wrapped black pepper salmon fillets. Although we didn’t catch these store-bought fish, we just pretended that we did. They were delicious, they were ours, and our mission had been accomplished.