Miami: Beyond the Beach and the Bar

I’m a southern white girl and I like to drink.

Not that I’ve identified myself, let me tell you about my first experience in Miami.

My best friend, Michelle, and have taken a trip together each summer for the past five years. This year’s destination was Miami: the land of beaches, nightlife, and good looking people.

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  • Issue #1: I’m 100% German and burn like a newborn baby.
  • Issue #2: I’m pushing 30 and get hangovers consistent with water-boarding.
  • Issue #3: I just got back from a 6-week road trip and didn’t have a lot of spare cash lying around.
  • Issue #4: Michelle got knocked up (she’s already “come out” on Facebook, so I’m not spoiling any surprise) so she had to eat and/or rest every two hours.

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Needless to say, we needed to find more to do in Miami than just hit the beaches and the bars. Don’t worry….I had my fair share of mojitos and got my fill of ocean water up the nose. But here’s a few other things to do if you find yourself in a similar situation visiting Miami:

Take a Touristy Boat Cruise

I despise tourist traps as much as the next seasoned traveler. However, sometimes some booze on a boat ain’t half bad. Island Queen Cruises offers hour long rides along “Millionaire’s Row” to spy in on the homes of the rich and famous. As you cruise along Biscayne Bay, you’ll see how Enrique Iglesias, Shakira, and Pitbull live out their days in the Sunshine State.

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Even if you don’t give a rat’s ass about celebrities, it’s a fun way to relax and enjoy the ocean breeze while listening to pop music you’d never dream of saying you actually enjoy. Tickets cost $26 per person and the bar is cash only. Buy one regularly-priced $7 drink to kick things off and then hold out ’til the last half of the tour when the prices drop to $5. The tour guides will be pushy, but you don’t have to tip if you don’t want to.

Stop by a Bayfront Park Concert

If you’re staying in a hotel downtown, the only place to go for the evening is Bayfront Park. There is an indoor/outdoor mall and lots of ocean-side restaurants with outside seating. The restaurants are pretty comparable to each other, so just pick one and have a seat. Whether you choose Cuban food or American food, it’s all pretty standard and totally edible.

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Bayfront Park hosts concerts pretty much every night, and it’s a good time if you haven’t heard of the band. Michelle and I stopped to listen to a random lounge jazz band. I can totally support that. The bands don’t usually draw large crowds, but passersby seem to enjoy the ambiance.

Stroll the Botanical Gardens

Unlike in many cities, the botanical gardens in Miami Beach are totally free. It’s nothing too elaborate or spectacular, but it is nice to stroll some green space and get a couple breaths of fresh air.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe gardens are open from 9-5 Tuesdays through Sundays, and they’re right across from the convention center. There’s always some kind of art exhibition going on at the gardens that makes you take a step back and go, “what the hell?” I had the pleasure of scratching my head at “Chapungu,” which featured twenty works from sculptors in Zimbabwe, and the emotion-invoking text bubbles of “Nayda Collazo-Llorens: Pleasure, Fear and the Pursuit of Happiness.”

Peruse the Art Center of South Florida

There are plenty of museums in the Miami area, but few that you can have all to yourself without paying a dime. The Art Center of South Florida is composed of three buildings of artist workspaces that hosts classes, exhibitions, and events. Unlike other art museums you’ve been to, this place lets you peek in on what local artists are doing without all the bells and whistles.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt’s easy to miss the museum buildings amidst the consumerism flashiness of Lincoln Road. When you visit, you’ll probably seeing a couple artists splashing paint around behind the layer of glass that keeps you on the outside looking in. As it’s flanked by designer stores and posh restaurants on all sides, the art center offers a rare glimpse of authenticity in Miami Beach.

Go to a Festival in Little Havana

Since traveling to Cuba is easier said than done, the next best thing is a visit to Little Havana. Now before you get your hopes up about meeting all your favorite Castro family members, there really isn’t that much to do in this small Cuban neighborhood. Although there are a few Cuban restaurants and a memorial in the park, the area is pretty low-key and residential. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne of the best times to visit Little Havana is during one of its Viernes Culturales festivals. A massive rain storm cut the festival short when I was in town, but the artists held out as long as you could. Head down to Calle Ocho, between 13th and 17th streets, on the last Friday of the month to check out some work from local artists, Cuban-style dancing, and some food vendors.

Attend an Outdoor Yoga Class

I already told you a little about Bayfront Park, but we’re going to head back there once more for the sake of fitness and mental clarity. The park offers free yoga classes for the public on Mondays evenings, Wednesday evenings, and Saturday mornings.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn especially hot days, arrive about twenty minutes early so you can snag a spot in the shade. Although my overall perception of Miamians was pushy and sales-driven, the people at this yoga gathering were legitimately alright. A local offered me an extra yoga mat to use since I’d only brought a beach towel, and a nice young gentleman behind me struck up a conversation about the bar sponsors on my Chicago kickball t-shirt.

Shop at Coral Gables and Coconut Grove 

When I travel to a new city, I always like to venture off the main drags and see what the neighborhoods are all about. On our last day in Miami, Michelle and I took a drive to three different neighborhoods that were highly rated by strangers on the Internet.

Miami’s Design District proved to be a bust because not a single thing was open. I supposed I’ll give the neighborhood the benefit of the doubt since it was Sunday morning. Next, we drove to Coral Gables in search of some retail therapy. Finally before heading to the airport, we checked out the Coconut Grove area. The latter two areas had their fair share of shops and restaurants, but nothing that totally blew us away.

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I take that back. One particular little shop, The Olfactory Co., knocked my socks off. As a low-maintenance gal with a gnome obsession, I usually prefer to shop for pointy-hatted companions over pointy-heeled shoes. Unexpectedly, this store carried gnomes in the form of finger puppets, dishes, salt n’ pepper shakers, and tea light candles.

If you’re looking to do more in Miami than get drunk and lay out, you’ve got to do your research and work for it. Well maybe you don’t now since I’ve been kind enough to give you a head’s start. However, don’t skip ’em, because then then you’d be missing out on the quintessential Miami experience. However, I hope this post just goes to show that you can find more than just beaches and bars in Miami.

Kayaking the Chicago River: Not as Nasty as its Reputation!

The Chicago River has a nasty reputation…not for something it did behind someone’s back, but for stuff the city’s  been dumping in it for decades. Conservation groups have declared it one of the most polluted waterways in America. Chicago wouldn’t be Chicago without a noxious mix of partially-treated waste and runoff full of pollutants!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASay what you will, but these murky green waters are no match for consumerism. Tour companies like Chicago Kayak and Urban Kayak making a living out of sending people out on the Chicago River, with little more than paddles and a life vest to arm themselves.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFortunately, I have my own kayak, so I don’t need to hand over $20/hour for my toxic recreation. However, there aren’t exactly “Put in your kayak here!” signs posted along the Chicago River to guide self-sufficient paddlers.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter a little bit of Googling, I found two boat launch areas that seemed to be conveniently located. One is the Ping Tom Memorial Park in Chinatown. I went for a run around this park recently and found a pretty decent looking boat launch next to the red pagoda-style pavilion housing none other but, you guessed it…kayaks for rent.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe other launch point I found by hunting through online forums was in Roscoe Village’s Clark Park. There’s a huge boathouse project underway in this park, which might be great someday (but not today). Due to the ongoing construction, access to the launch point is barricaded off and plenty of construction workers stand on-guard to bark at you once you cross into their territory.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMildly frustrated and itching to get into some filthy waves, a on-site search informed me about yet another launch point that supposedly existed along the Chicago River. River Park at Francisco and Argyle proved to be the river’s saving grace.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFollow the sounds of the water until you see some folks fishing. You’ll feel out of place since there aren’t other kayakers hanging out, but rest assured you’re in the right place.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere are some reasonable put-in spots just south of the dam and just north of Argyle. Within just a few paddle strokes to the south towards downtown, you’ll see an ancient building that probably used to be majestic. It’s appropriately named the North Branch Sewage Station Sanitary District of Chicago.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAContinue paddling and you’ll see some excellent exhibitions of graffiti art, some old rusty bridges, some suspiciously white foamy sections of water, and even a glimpse of the familiar skyline peeking through. On nice days, you’ll likely encounter a few other brave souls aboard kayaks, but you’ll pretty much have the waterways to yourself the whole time.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMuch to my surprise, there was wildlife thriving along the Chicago River! These geese must be awfully resilient, because they seemed to be having a grant ole’ time pecking through the top film in search of food.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASo what’s my advice for my Chicago neighbors looking to kayak the Chicago River? Just keep your mouth shut and do it.

All joking aside, it’s really not that bad and I haven’t even started developing a third arm yet. Obviously don’t drink the water and don’t swim in it, but it’s fine to kayak so grab a paddle and give it a try. The waters are incredibly calm, so beginners will feel comfortable and more advanced paddlers can have an uncommonly relaxing day enjoying the sunshine and the scenery.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFor the true nature enthusiast, outdoor recreation is hard to come by in Chicago. To feel like you’re in the middle of it all, you’ve got to settle for what’s around you. Sure, you can drive out to the suburbs or up to Wisconsin for a more pleasant paddle. But if you’re pressed for time or have a limited budget, the Chicago River can build your upper body strength (and your stomach) for bigger and better things.

Breaking Up Your Bike Ride (with a Boat Ride) in Burlington

Burlington, Vermont is one of those kind of rare towns I could see myself living in someday and being happy in for awhile. It’s chill enough to not stress me out, yet has enough going on to make me not feel restless. If you’ve spent too much time in towns with populations of both 2,100 and 2.7 million, you understand how amazing of a balance this really is.

I recently spent a week in the Grand Isle area along Lake Champlain and found myself biking to be the best way to get around. The roads from Grand Isle to Burlington are ideal for biking because there isn’t much traffic to battle with, the hills are gentle on weary muscles, and the scenery is peaceful enough to make even the most cluttered mind start to wander.

The Burlington bike path

The Burlington bike path

Perhaps the most unique aspect of biking to and from Burlington is the bike ferry. After a rail bridge was torn down, a narrow breach in the middle of Lake Champlain was left behind, forcing bikers to choose between either turning back or taking a swim with their bikes. A company called Local Motion operates a ferry service that connects bikers and hikers to the neighboring villages of South Hero and Colchester.

Local Motion tent

Local Motion tent

Local Motion raised $1.5 million dollars from donations last year to leverage state and federal dollars to repair the three-mile portion that extends into the lake. The entire operation is run by volunteers and donor funds to keep locals active and Vermont topping the “most bike friendly destinations” lists.

Since running a boat company isn’t exactly cheap (operating costs are about $100,000 per year), you need to fork over $8 to take the 5-minute ride from one side of the bike trail to the other. Season and annual passes are available too, which a pleasant retiree will tell you about when you approach the ferry tent.

Ferry boat arrival

Ferry boat arrival

The bike ferry is a wonderfully efficient, low-budget operation. Basically, one guy drives a little boat back and forth while another guy ties it up and helps you lift your bikes on board. The ferry service has been able to expand in recent years, offering Friday, Saturday, and Sunday service from 10am to 6pm during the summer months.

All aboard the bike ferry

All aboard the bike ferry

No matter how nice the day is or how much you beg, the ferry volunteers won’t detour to take you joyriding around the lake. The break in the bike path isn’t actually very wide at all. I would have just jumped in and swum across it if I wasn’t lugging along a fancy bike on loan from my buddy in the Peace Corps.

Bike racks secured and off we go

Bike racks secured and off we go

After you reluctantly conclude the boat ride portion of your bike ride, a volunteer will warn you that the last ferry to get back leaves at 6pm. Keeping a strict time schedule in mind while on vacation is burdensome. Yet somehow, it adds a sense of progressive structure to an otherwise leisurely day exploring a new place.

Colchester residential path

Colchester residential path

Soak up the serenity as you ride with crisp, blue water on each side because the neighborhood section is up ahead. I’ve ridden through plenty of neighborhoods before, but few as well maintained as this one with designated bike paths and plenty of shade.

Trailside gnome discovery

Trailside gnome discovery

As a self-proclaimed gnome addict, I was pleased to encounter a gnome garden in a small front yard along the path. When I stopped to introduce myself and snap some shots, the motorcycling homeowner wasn’t nearly as enticed by his “wife’s collection” as I was.

Winooski Bridge Trail

Winooski Bridge Trail

After a few turns through the neighborhood, you’ll enter the village of Colchester and pass over the Winooski Trail Bridge and enter Leddy Park. If it’s a nice day outside, you’ll see beach-goers with towels and coolers in tow as you approach North Beach and Waterfront Park.

Switchback Brewing Company

Switchback Brewing Company

Keeping a keen eye on our watches, we chose Switchback Brewing Co. as our reward destination for the miles we’d peddled and the heat we’d endured. More time was spent trying to find the door to the brewery than actually drinking beers inside of it. Switchback is tucked away in a warehouse district with an unassuming sign, and it’s only open a couple hours of the day.

I’ll admit that I was pretty disappointed to find only two beers on tap for samples and zero beers on tap for sale. A girl who barely looked old enough to pour a beer handed out samples of their similar-tasting ale and red ale. In retrospect, I’m glad that this brewery stop was a bust because it allowed time for a second brewery to be added to the day’s agenda.

Zero Gravity Brewery

Zero Gravity Brewery

The clock was clicking and the last ferry of the day was leaving the dock in an hour and a half. As a real woman who can handle her beer, I wasn’t worried. Well, maybe just a little.

I was skeptical about Zero Gravity Brewing because it was located inside a restaurant called American Flatbread. I always find myself a little wearing of breweries that advertise their food first and their beer second. Much to my surprise, Zero Gravity brews were delicious. And there were more than two of them, which was an added bonus. Zero Gravity didn’t offer samplers, but they did serve up half-pints. We settled on the Gandy Dancer California commons, Grateful Belgian ale, Keeper Biere de gard, and Starkboro coffee amber. I’d order any of them a second time, if given the opportunity.

The return boat ride

The return boat ride

As typical, a bit too much time was spent at the bar and the 6pm ferry departure was quickly approaching. I’ve never been much for adrenaline rushes and unnecessary risk, but a 14+mph average speed seemed appropriate for the return journey. Although getting stranded wouldn’t have been the worst thing in the world, a pre-paid campground with delicious s’mores ingredients waited on the other side.

Since I’d been peddling around Canada the previous week, my body was in better biking shape than usual. Since I’d removed myself from my normal routine and physical location, my mind was prepared for wherever my body took me.

Instead of being turned off by a challenge, I embraced it. Instead of letting my anxiety get the best of me, I focused on the single task at hand. Instead of being oblivious to the beauty around me, I shifted my gaze towards subtleties.

The return bike ride

The return bike ride

The scenery continues to be ever-changing on the Burlington Bike Path, as you move from land to water, land again, residential streets, forested paths, beachfront areas, and city streets. And once you’ve arrived, you get to do it all over again, with a path to follow and a goal in the distance.

Some bike paths are just gravel roads to get from Point A to Point B. Others leave a lasting impression that’s hard to shake long after the helmet’s tossed off and the padded shorts are in the laundry basket.

If you’re interested in donating to the Burlington Bike Ferry or volunteering, contact Local Motion at [email protected]

A Steamy Tour of Western Hot Springs

Before spending a month traveling around the Western United States, my experience with hot springs was limited to a free outdoor stream I managed to find in Costa Rica. However, after dipping into near-boiling waters across Wyoming and Montana, I’ve been a bit more of a hot springs expert.

But as I quickly learned, not all hot springs are created equal. Some are situated in state-regulated bathhouses and others are tucked away along hiking trails. Some give off the vibe of a relaxing spa and others a more scantily-clad version of a college frat party. Here are a few observations and recommendations of hot springs in the Wild West:

The Boiling River

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone National Park – Mammoth Hot Springs, MT

The National Park Service doesn’t exactly advertise The Boiling River as a public bathing area, so you won’t see any signs with arrows pointing you to it. Park your car on the east side of the road near the “45th Parallel of Latitude – Halfway Between Equator and North Pole” sign at the Montana/Wyoming state line in the park. As you walk about a half mile upstream from the parking area, you’l start wondering if this hot springs really does exist. Keep walking…you’ll be seeing clouds of stream soon enough.

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Cold water from the Gardiner River and hot water from the Boiling River meet at this point and swirl around to create a pleasant temperature. Although the National Park Service website claims the area is closed in springtime due to high water levels, we and other bathers were splashing around on April 11th when it was barely above freezing.

There’s no rangers around and the water is miserably scalding in certain parts, but it is free to get in (after you’ve paid your national park fee at the entrance, of course). I  only lasted a couple minutes in my bathing suit, but my boyfriend got a full blown shower out of it.

Bozeman Hot Springs

Bozeman Hot Springs

Bozeman Hot Springs – Bozeman, MT

If you’ve been camping in a 20-degree blizzard in Yellowstone National Park for awhile, these hot springs feel amazing. If you’re looking to relax your mind and soothe your soul, you’re better off hitting the hot tub at the Holiday Inn.

These hot springs look exactly like a public pool, and they’re just as crowded as one too. The pools are located on the outskirts of Bozeman, near Four Corners, and it costs $8.50 per adult to get in the door. You can dip into six different pools after you toss your clothes in a locker, and one of them is even outside. The inside pools are split into two sections and have different temperatures to test out.

These hot springs have pretty limited hours, so families with dozens of obnoxious children cram into steamy pools with fun noodles and inflatable arm bands. If you can squeeze into the outdoor pool after the sun goes down, you can look up at the stars and experience the extremes of hot and cold at the same time.

Chico Hot Springs

Chico Hot Springs

Chico Hot Springs – Pray, MT

Drive half an hour north of Yellowstone to Pray, Montana to experience the best hot springs in a reasonable driving distance. I was initially intimidated by Chico because it’s a day spa resort and I saw dollar signs flashing before my eyes. Believe it or not, a day pass is only $7.50 to use these hot springs.

Chico has two large pools, one set at 96-degrees and the other at 103-degrees. We liked this place so much that we splurged for a one-night stay and soaked in the hot springs for a second day. Unlike the first two springs I mentioned, these are pools that you can bring booze into….which is a huge bonus. Visit the pool-side bar for local beers and mixed drinks that you can take with you in plastic cups into the pool.

These hot springs were mostly filled with adult couples and retirees, so the atmosphere was quiet, peaceful, and relaxing. You don’t have to fight for a corner to sit in at Chico, and you can hang out at their bar and use their free Wi Fi while you’re there as well.

Thermopolis Free Public Bathhouse

Thermopolis Hot Springs - Thermopolis, WY

Thermopolis Hot Springs – Thermopolis, WY

After visiting a few hot springs in the cold weather, you’ll likely develop an addiction for all things producing steam. We traveled to Thermopolis, Wyoming simply because the name sounded warm.

Thermopolis has a free public bathhouse that is run by the state, and it feels like it. There’s a 20-minute soaking limit in these springs, which are located right in the middle of Hot Springs State Park, which is right in the middle of the town. You’re required to sign in at the front desk and stick to a brief dip to avoid reprimand. Bypass the indoor pool and hurry over to the outdoor pool, which has an awing overhead to shield you from sun and snow.

Aside from some easy hiking trails with informational plaques about the history of hot springs in the West, there isn’t a whole lot to do in this small town. So while these hot springs feel rushed, the water temperature is great and you can’t beat free entertainment.

Evan’s Plunge

Unfortunately, our hot springs tour ended on a sour note. On the drive back to Chicago, we made a point to stop on the last hot springs to be found: Evan’s Plunge. I found it surprising that a town called “Hot Springs” only had one hot springs facility, even if it was in South Dakota.

We arrived at Evan’s Plunge shortly before closing time, hoping to catch a dip before they closed their doors. We were absolutely the only people in the pool, which had a freezing temperature and a depressing 1970s theme park vibe. They claim the water is 87-degrees, but it was downright frigid compared to the other hot springs we’d recently been to. Not only was the water cold, but it cost a whopping $12.50 per person to get it.

A few teenagers showed up after we went down the slides a couple times for the hell of it. After the water temperature became unbearable, we relocated to the hot tubs, which contained no natural mineral water at all and were too hot to bear for more than a couple minutes at a time.

So if you’re planning on heading out west anytime soon, you should definitely check out some hot springs if the temperature dip a little low. My advise? Check out Yellowstone’s Boiling River for an amazing view and unique experience, and check out Chico Hot Springs to experience affordable relaxation the way nature intended.

How to Cheat the System & Dip Into Costa Rica’s Hot Springs

Few things in this world feel better than soothing, perfect-temperature hot springs after a grueling bike trip in a ninety-degree tropical rain forest. When I visited the Arenal Volcano area in Costa Rica, I discovered one of those “few better things”: FREE hot springs.

When I was planning my Costa Rican adventure, I was bombarded with dozens of search results for hot spring resorts throughout the country. Hot springs have been popular since the 1800’s for their therapeutic and relaxation benefits. Many people claim that our minds and bodies react positively with the heat and minerals contained in natural hot springs. The mysterious waters’ sulfate, bicarbonate, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, and lithium components supposedly heal everything from chronic pain to skin disease to depression.

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Thanks to an abundance of volcanoes, Costa Rica’s landscape is riddled with underground hot springs that can be found in every size, shape, and temperature imaginable. Unfortunately, the tourism industry has commercialized the hell out of these rare and natural phenomenons. High-end resorts have channeled the warm, flowing waters onto their properties to offer luxurious packages with private nooks and martini bars. Kid-friendly water parks have installed enormous water slides to cater towards families looking to shut the kids up for awhile.

But those fruity martinis and quiet kids don’t come without a price. Many of Costa Rica’s hot springs resorts start with a sticker price of over $100 per person. Sure, La Fortuna’s Baldi Hot Springs Hotel and Spa boasts of twenty-five natural mineral water pools at twelve different temperatures under exuberant waterfalls. However, a day pass to simply take a dip drains $104 from your wallet. A day pass for the first commercial hot springs to be established in the Arenal Volcano area, Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort, will set you back a whopping $126.

As a traveler on a writer’s budget, I began to think that hot springs were simply out of my reach. Then much to my delight, I received a tip from the owner of Hotel Villas Vista Arenal, where I had made reservations for a couple days. The tip was that if you walk across the road from the fancy Tabacón resort, you could walk down a hill and access the hot springs for free. After an uphill-both-ways style bike ride around the Arenal Volcano, we parked our bikes by a gate along the road and went to scope it out for ourselves.

As you walk along an unassuming path down a gentle hill, you begin to hear the rush of water and see the steam rising into the air. There were a few tourists and a couple locals hanging around nearby, but I can’t say that the area was crowded in the least. Since this was my very first hot springs experience, I was surprised to find that the temperature of the water was perfect. Cooler than the hot tub at the Xport Fitness, yet warmer than any outdoor body of water I’d ever encountered.

Another perk to these free “secret” hot springs is that it’s totally unregulated. Living in the U.S., I’m used to my every move being policed. But if you want to crack open a couple Imperials while taking a dip here, no problemo.

We full immersed ourselves in the water after discretely changing into bathing suits behind a bush. The current flowed at a moderate pace, but the waters felt nonthreatening and as sanitary as you could hope for in nature.

I’m sure the fancy resorts are nice and all, but I’d recommend these nameless, free public hot springs to anyone visiting the volcano area.  The best way to get to them is by finding Tabacón and walking across the street. If you’re reading my blog, then I automatically like you, you deserve to get this insider tip, and I hope you take advantage of it. Although I cannot confirm with any degree of certainty that Costa Rica’s hot springs stimulated my circulation, boosted my immune system, or detoxified my poor liver, it sure was relaxing and unforgettable.

What’s the Deal with Inflatable Kayaks?

IMG_3225I’ve always wanted a kayak, but in Chicago, it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense. Although I took whitewater classes a few years ago and I’ve paddled around my fair share of waterways, I’m not the most experienced kayaker either. So when I bought an inflatable one with REI dividends, I had no idea what I was getting myself into.

IMG_3226The weapon of choice was the Friday Harbor Adventure Tandem Inflatable Kayak…primarily, because it was only $199.95. And after combining my boyfriend’s dividend rewards and my own, it was essentially free. Compared to any other inflatable kayak on the market, the price is a steal. Now the real question was….did it work?

The big perk of this kayak is its mobility. It defies all kayak logic and folds up into a small square, weighing barely over twenty pounds. It took up far less room than all our camping gear in the Rola hitch tray cargo bag.

We made our first kayaking attempt at the Big Horn National Forest, near Buffalo, in Wyoming. After many days of snow and below-freezing temperatures, we were finally blessed with a 50-degree day with sunshine and no wind. The hand pump that we bought to inflate the kayak was a pretty standard one, but it proved to be less of a pain-in-the-ass than expected. It inflates on both the “up” and the “down” pumps, so inflating goes twice as fast. There are, however, five different sections to pump: left side, right side, bottom, seat #1, and seat #2. But believe me, the inflating process does get quicker and easier with practice.

We cast off on a shallow beach at the edge of the Big Horn Canyon. Since it was our first attempt, we opted to stay within the designated swimming area in case chaos should strike. Much to my surprise and relief, there was no chaos whatsoever!

IMG_3228The 230 cm paddles we picked up proved to be a perfect length for this particular kayak…if you’re 5’8″ anyway. The bottom and sides didn’t leak air, and the only water that got into the boat was from our dripping paddles. There isn’t a ton of leg room in the front or back seat, but there was enough for two 5’8″ people to sit pretty comfortably for a couple hours. Most importantly, it didn’t get punctured, we didn’t tip over, and no one got hypothermia!

My boyfriend and I took the kayak out for a second boating day at Bear Butte State Park, near Sturgis, in South Dakota. Attempt #2 was just as successful, however we felt the effects of the wind more that time. Since it’s an inflatable, the kayak’s direction is more affected by strong wind currents than a traditional kayak would be.

So without further ado…

PROS: 

  • Easy to pack for road trips and even plane trips
  • Way more affordable than other traditional and inflatable kayaks
  • Lightweight and reasonably durable, at least under moderate river/weather conditions
  • Tandem design lets you chat with your sweetheart as you row
  • Easy to dry off after use
  • Bungee straps on both ends to secure your dry bag
  • Handles on each end make it easy to carry when inflated and to get in and out of the water

CONS: 

  • Hard to steer in moderate to high winds
  • Not a lot of leg room, especially in the backseat
  • Takes a little while to inflate, until you get the hang of it
  • Pretty slow in speed and not the greatest tracking

RECOMMENDATIONS: 

  • Don’t use it when the wind is more than 10 mph 
  • Best used in lakes or slow flowing rivers, best with Class I or II
  • Get paddling gloves for cold water, your hands will get wet when water drips off the paddles
  • Use the drain hole with plug to remove excess water, if a good amount gets in
  • Use for lazy, recreational fun until you live somewhere cool enough to justify splurging on a traditional, fancy-schmancy whitewater one

Art from the Road

I am an absolutely terrible artist. You may have heard about a project that I was a founding member of back in 2008, Free Crappy Portraits. The purpose of Free Crappy Portraits (FCP) was to draw strangers in public (with or against their will) and/or from the Internet based on photos they submitted. We kept our clients’ expectations low and never disappointed!

The only art class I took in college was art history. I signed up for a park district painting class a couple years ago and the instructor simply stopped showing up. Although I am a lost cause to the art world, I found my place creating really bad portraits for strangers at no cost.

Today, I carry around a sketch book wherever I go on my travels. Although I my technique is embarrassing  and I have no sense of perspective, I love to draw the versions of things that I see along the road. My recent travels to South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana were no exception. Here are just a few of the awesomely terrible works of road trip art from my sketchbook.

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I call this one “Mt. Gnomemore”. After walking around Mt. Rushmore with my trusty travel gnome, I felt that the roles should be reversed. I think that this is a truly brilliant idea and after Googling it, I am convinced that it is unique to my creation. This may just be my ticket to fame and fortune.

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Created with oil pastels, this is my “Welcome to Montana’ drawing. As we crossed the border from Wyoming into Montana, we were greeted with cows on the side of the road, lakes and rivers in the foreground, mountains in the background, and adorable cabins along the roadside. A night of peaceful camping awaited us across the border.

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This colored pencil sketch is called, “Creatures in the Campground.” We camped at Mammoth Campground in Yellowstone National Park for five nights. Due to the winter season, it was the only campground open at that time and the temperatures often dipped below 20-degrees.

Bison and elk regularly roamed about the campground, incredibly close to our tent and Jeep. Although I was initially terrified to sleep next to these wild creatures (who would surely attack at any moment), I eventually came to trust that they wouldn’t mess with me if I didn’t mess with them.

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Prior to starting this road trip, we bought an inflatable kayak and all the necessary accessories. Although the temperatures were almost always cold and the winds strong, one particular day in the Big Horn National Forest of Wyoming proved to be perfect for boating.

Our first kayaking attempt in the Big Horn Canyon was successful. We didn’t tip over, the kayak didn’t get punctured, and no one got hypothermia. This above photo depicts a painting that I completed while staying in a remote, snowed-in cabin at 9,000+ elevation.

Although I take travel notes and write throughout my trips, my crappy artwork helps me to remember things the way that I first saw them. Although my drawings and paintings could easily be mistake for a five-year-old’s, I love flipping through my sketchbook and making fun of myself from time to time while reminiscing.

Even if you’re an avid photographer or writer, give it a try. What you see in your mind’s eye might provide a more lasting memory than any snapshot could show or words describe. For whatever reason, it does for me.

Backpacking the Shawnee National Forest

The concept of “backpacking” always sounded like the epitome of adventure to me. But while the self-sufficiency and the minimalist nature appealed to my senses, my practical side questioned how I could actually find a path and survive the lifestyle. On a whim, I dropped a pretty penny on a 65-liter REI backpack. It sat in my apartment for weeks and I would admire how “fun” it looked to use someday.

My boyfriend had a backpacking trip or two under his belt. Although we’ve been avid campers and hikers for the past year, we’ve never strayed far from having a car full of supplies nearby. Although we’d romanticized month-long backpacking excursions around Europe and The Pacific Crest Trail, we were realistic enough to know we should start small.

Not surprisingly, the options for outdoor adventure in the Midwest are sparse. However, The Shawnee National Forest, located at the border of Illinois and Kentucky, offers some commendable options for nearby adventurers. Because of the close proximity and since it consists of relatively flat terrain, my boyfriend and I chose Shawnee for our first attempt at backpacking.

We departed on a rainy Thursday evening in October to make the six-hour southbound drive from Chicago. After a night’s stay in a cheap motel, we woke bright and early and headed to the Lusk Creek Wilderness. Since there was incredibly little information published online about backpacking in this area, we stopped at the Vistiors’ Center (located at 50 Highway 145 South, Harrisburg, Illinois) to purchase some maps.

To our relief, there were some great maps for sale in the Visitor’s Center. A couple less detailed maps trial maps are posted for free download on the USDA website as well.

With maps in hand and backpacks stuffed to the brim, our starting point was the Indian Kitchen Trail Head. My backpack felt dreadfully uncomfortable almost immediately . The straps dug into my hips, my shoulders ached, and I couldn’t help but hunch over. After adjusting the pack several times with minimal relief, I realized that I would just have to deal with it and get used to it.

From Indian Kitchen, we hiked to Bowed Tree Crossing and then towards Natural Bridge. We were backpacking on equestrian trails, so we had to be on the constant lookout for horse poop. This totally reminded me of growing up in an Amish town and going for late night runs in the “buggy lanes”.

On the way to Natural Bridge, we temporarily lost our bearings and ended up on the outskirts of the wilderness area. This was pretty clear because there was a private residence visible in the distance.

After some uphill backtracking and pushing through uncut forests, we found our way back on the trail to Natural Bridge. It was perfect hiking weather – 60’s and cloudy – but the clouds were starting to roll in and the forecasted rain seemed to be approaching.

The rain began almost as soon as we reached Natural Bridge. We took a couple pictures and contemplated our next move. Our next move was pretty much decided for us as the sprinkles turned into a torrential downpour. Fortunately, we had scoped out a couple decent spots to set up camp along the way and had one particular spot in mind. We frantically pulled the tent gear from our packs and set the tent up in record speed.

It was about 5:30pm, but we were confined to the tent for the rest of the evening due to the rain. Although we had hiked less than eight miles, I was definitely feeling the strain of my first backpacking trip already.

We had packed several freeze-dried meals and used a Jet Boil Stove to make ourselves a hearty meal of Mountain House New Orleans Style Rice with Shrimp and Ham and Blueberry Cobbler. These were surprisingly delicious!

The remainder of the waking hours were spent reading iPads and playing a dice/card game called Pass the Pigs. Except for the occasional sound of a locomotive engine horn, the night was completely silent.

Although quite cold, the sun was shining the next morning when we awoke. Our attempts to dry out the tent and rain fly were pointless, so we shoved the wet materials into our packs and set off for a short hike to Secret Canyon. This was probably the most impressive and scenic spot along the whole trail. The canyons formed a sort of amphitheater that curved around a large space under an expansive forest area. If only we would have known about these cavern retreats during the previous day’s rain storm! What a great natural shelter these would have provided!

We had to retrace our steps from the previous day to get back to my parked Jeep. On our first day, we only saw one other person on the trail….an older local gentleman on his horse. We saw the same gentleman on our second day as well and he advised us that there was a group of equestrian travelers up ahead.

We encountered these travelers at Owl Bluff. Three generations of a family dressed up in cowboy hats and chaps were having lunch in the clearing when we arrived in the area.

“Are you lost?” one older gentleman asked with a laugh.

“No, not really” we replied. ” with map and compass clearly in sight.

“Good! ‘Cause we are!” the gentleman exclaimed with another hearty laugh.

Although they had the same map that we did, we pointed out the path that we had traveled from and the approximate distances. They still seemed a bit uncertain, but were satisfied enough with our advice to wish us on our way. As we parted, one of the women cautioned us about a river up ahead and laughed about how we planned to get through it.

Although our hike was coming to an end, little did we know that one of the most challenging parts was still ahead. We’d already had to cross a few small creeks along the way, but with little difficulty. We’d take off our shoes, roll up our pants, and tip toe across the rocky creek bottom to get to the other side.

Our hiking boots squished down the trail from Owl Bluff, covered in mud and horse poop built up from the previous day’s rainstorm. As we came around a bend, we saw what the woman at Owl Bluff was laughing about. The river was probably five times as wide as the previous creeks we had crossed. The water was freezing cold, it was flowing at a moderate speed, and we couldn’t see the bottom. Mental notes were made about investing in waterproof hiking boots as soon as possible.

There was no way around it, so we went through it. We moved slowly, cautiously, and with outstretched arms to avoid tipping over with the large backpacks and getting all of our supplies wet. After a good amount of time, we both finally reached the other side. At this point, we realized we were nearly out of drinking water. This wasn’t a huge deal because we only had a half day’s hike ahead of us. We had also packed some water purification tablets and wanted to test if they actually made natural water drinkable.

I scooped some yellow-brown water from the river that we had just crossed in our bare feet into my empty bottle and popped a couple tablets inside. The sun began to come out as we continued on the hike, and this provided to be yet another day with perfect hiking weather.

Without getting lost and with no additional obstacles (except for ample amounts of mud and horse poop), we made it back to the trail head. I was so relieved to see my blue Jeep in the distance.  My first backpacking trip was complete and it was a success! Exhausted, I plopped down on the ground and checked the river water in my bottle. It was still yellow-brown. I dumped it out.

In total, we backpacked almost 20 miles. We prevailed through rainstorms, getting lost, trail-side cooking, river crossings, and each other during our hike. While beautiful, Shawnee National Forest was merely a baby-step in the direction of hardcore backpacking. Regardless, I learned a lot throughout this baby-step and I can’t wait to plan a teenager-step backpacking trip as soon as the winter passes.

First Time Fishing

It was Memorial Day weekend and there was an important mission at hand. Catching a fish.

Neither my boyfriend or I had ever held a fishing pole before, but this was the weekend that would all change. We’re outdoorsy….we camp, we hike, so it just seemed  like the right thing to do. We drove from Chicago to the Chain o’ Lakes State Park and set up camp at Site #6. Fortunately, there was a Wal-Mart nearby so stocking up on fishing supplies was a no-brainer.

We picked up the second cheapest pole on the shelf, a small tackle box with a bunch of strange and colorful devices, and a bucket of live earthworms. The state park had several fishing piers, and most them were occupied by at least a couple fathers with their kids. We picked the empty end of one of the piers because we figured the marshy and shallow shoreline wouldn’t be a great place to cast a line.

According to the Internet, these fish were supposed to be in this particular lake: bluegill, large-mouth bass, walleye, crappie, muskie, northern pike, bullhead, catfish and yellow and white bass. Yeah right.

My ex_magicianever-patient boyfriend sat with that fishing pole for a seemingly endless amount of time. I had anticipated my ADD to kick in, so I brought along a sketchpad and colored pencils to make crappy art and distract myself. The earthworms would occasionally get yanked off the hook and my boyfriend would reel the line back in to re-bait. To be a good sport, I pretended to help bait the hook a time or two. To save some bait, I attempted to cut the earthworms  in half with a rock to make them last longer. While I’m sure this was amusing to watch, it created more mess than conservation.

After a couple hours, we had to give up. The nearby fisherdads exclaimed “What? You’re done already?!” and “Ya didn’t catch anything? I’ve caught at least five already!”. I hated them so much. They weren’t doing anything special. They weren’t putting any more effort into their catches and their pole didn’t look any more fancy than ours. Yet, our mission was failing.

Before the sun started to set, my boyfriend suggested relocating to another pier to see if fish in another area liked us any better. I continued making really bad art and snapping pictures of the scenery to pass the time. Not more than twenty minutes passed before he started yelling. Something was pulling on the line! Some fish was dumb enough to eat the mangled worm hanging on our hook!

I threw my sketchpad on the ground and furiously snapped pictures…hoping to get a shot of his first fish before it decided it didn’t really want to eat that earthworm. The fish stayed on the hook as he reeled it in and we shrieked with excitement. In all honesty, it was a pretty small fish. But after a day of sitting around catching nothing, this was about as exciting as it got.

Prior to this trip, my boyfriend talked scaling the fish he caught and cooking them for dinner on our mini camp grill. This particular fish was not exactly big enough to eat, and I was secretly relieved. The idea of fish guts squirting all over the grill didn’t exactly make my mouth water.

He ended up throwing the fish back into the lake. As I sit here typing this story, I wonder if that fish ever regained consciousness because we definitely played with it while it dangled from the hook for quite some time. (Cue bad joke about  plenty of fish in the sea?) I held the fishing pole a few times as well to see if I’d have any luck, but to this day I have still never caught a fish.

We packed our fishing gear back in my Jeep and drove back to the all too familiar Wal-Mart. Going straight to the seafood section, we found individually-wrapped black pepper salmon fillets. Although we didn’t catch these store-bought fish, we just pretended that we did. They were delicious, they were ours, and our mission had been accomplished.

Sunwolf Adventure Center in the Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada

Ask any outdoor adventure enthusiast and they’ve probably at least heard of Squamish and Brackendale. Although often overshadowed by Whistler to the north and Vancouver to the south, these top sporting destinations offer up a side of small town hospitality with a main dish of big adventure.

Last Labor Day weekend, I booked a whitewater rafting trip with the adventure company, Sunwolf. Although I set up a tent at nearby Klahanie Campground in Squamish, the Sunwolf Adventure Center rents out ten private cabins with fireplaces, showers, and kitchenettes. The outdoor center is tucked away in rural Brackendale and the property features a large deck for grilling, communal campfire pit, playground, and a hot tub.

Upon arriving at Sunwolf, our well-organized guides promptly handed out liability waivers and preached the do’s and don’ts of whitewater rafting. After assisting the guides in hoisting two inflatable eight-person rafts atop a big yellow school bus, we set out for the drop point of the Elaho River. Sunwolf provided everyone with full wetsuits, neoprene boots, and helmets, which were included in the cost of the booking fee.

Halfway through the trip, we broke for lunch at an island along the shore for a gourmet wild Pacific salmon barbeque that was absolutely delicious. The Elaho’s Class III and Class IV rapids were no match for our paddling skills and the rafting trip was a success. When we arrived back at the Adventure Center, our guides gathered us in Fergie’s Café for well-deserved beers and a viewing of the photos their professional photographer snapped throughout the day. Since there were some great shots in the slideshow, I purchased a flash drive to better remember my awesome adventure.

As an outdoor adventure enthusiast myself, I have hired many guide companies over the years. Sunwolf was top notch in their service, availability, experience, and friendliness. Not only did our raft stay afloat the entire day, but met some great people and found a great guide company that I would recommend to anyone.