Casual Judgements in Toronto

After spending a few days in Canada’s largest city, I couldn’t help but make some observations along the way. Here’s a few things that I found scribbled in a notebook from those days as I worked, played, and remained casually judgmental.

1. Biking is okay in Toronto, but not great.

Before even crossing into the city limits, I had the impression that Toronto was a bike-friendly city. With a permanent residence in Chicago, I had high expectations for the Canadian equivalent. I will say that a few areas around the city are great for biking…Toronto Island in particular after the ferry ride. However, a majority of the streets downtown don’t have bike lanes, so you have to squeeze between cars in heavy traffic. To save on hotel bills, I stayed in the semi-nearby Scarborough Township. Biking to the downtown area required either a bus-yellow line subway ride or a blue line-green line transfer subway ride, which became a pain in the ass after a couple days.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA2. I’m a minority.

I see enough white people on a daily basis, so Toronto was refreshingly diverse. Never have I seen so many mixed-race couples and bi-racial kids running around in public parks.

3. You can smoke weed wherever you want. 

A whiff here, a whiff there, a passing breeze to bring back cloudy memories of college days. Unless my nose steers me wrong, Toronto isn’t all that hung up on public use marijuana laws.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA4. 90’s grunge isn’t dead.

If you lived out your adolescent years in the 90s you might feel right at home in Toronto. While biking the city streets, I saw a greater than average number of flannel shirts, baggy jeans, mohawks, and camouflage.

5. Folks are cool with being naked. 

I had the pleasure of experiencing my first nude beach near Hanlan’s Point on Toronto Island. There were a good number of fully nude dudes, a couple shirtless chicks, and a surprisingly un-weird vibe. This beach was incredibly peaceful, despite all the “stuff” hanging out.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA6. Traffic is just as bad, or worse, than Chicago.

Since I live in a city, I typically don’t enjoy vacationing in a city…especially another one with similarly stressful traffic. Getting around the highways can be difficult when your GPS doesn’t understand where Canada is and your cell reception cuts off at the border.

7. People aren’t overly friendly, but cordial. 

After my last road trip through Montana, I became accustomed to strangers being friendly to road trippers. Toronto struck a middle ground in this regard. Locals didn’t exactly go out of their way to say hello, but they weren’t assholes either. I met a guy named Walter who lived on Marcos Street and had an exquisite collection of gnomes in his yard. Naturally, I introduced myself. He was kind enough to let me snap some shots and even see the backyard collection.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA8. The Scarborough Bluffs don’t exist. 

I read about the Scarborough Bluffs on Trip Advisor and thought it’d be a cool place to check out for some cliff-side biking. I found that the bluffs (if they do happen to exist) are pretty inaccessible by bike. After some dead ends and treacherous roads, I didn’t even catch a glimpse of any jagged peaks.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA9. Shit’s expensive.

Just when you thought things were expensive back at home, Canada gives you a swift slap in the face. A one-way bus ride cost me $4.35, a mediocre six-pack of beer costs me around $13, and if I could figure out the metric system I’d tell you what an exorbitant rate I paid for gas.

Those are the nine random things that I’ll probably remember most about being in Toronto? I can’t say that I felt at home there and I’m not sure if I’ll be back anytime soon, but it definitely was an interesting place that was fun to spend a few days in.

Road Tripping with the ‘Check Engine’ Light On

Today marks Day #4 of our second workcation. We started calling this trip “The Vermainshire Workcation,” but then we ended up in Canada and name combinations just became too confusing.

I write today from a dorm-like motel in Scarborough, on the outskirts of Toronto, as I knock out some projects to pay for the days ahead. Things are going smoothly so far, but they didn’t start out that way.

On Saturday morning at 7am, we stuffed the Jeep full of seemingly useful crap, attached a couple bikes, and secured the hitch rack cargo bag. About an hour into our drive, my Jeep (who goes by “Chief Surfs with Manatees, if you were unaware) dinged a foreboding ding.

The dreaded “check engine” light was shining brightly back at me from the dash, mocking me.

A debate of the options ensued, and we considered driving back to Chicago to get it taken care of. We settled on pulling over in Michigan City, Indiana to take Chief to the automobile emergency room.

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We first attempted to buy a scanner to diagnose the problem at an Advanced Auto Parts. The dude there was kind enough to scan Chief with the company scanner for free, which saved us at least fifty bucks. Woot! The diagnosis indicated an EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) issue, and while a treatment plan couldn’t be determined from that, it was clear we needed some professional help.

A crap-hole shop called Apex Auto Care advised they couldn’t even diagnose Chief, let alone fix him because he was “too new”. Apparently, all the cars they service are from 2009 or older, which is weird and lame.

Fortunately, another shop, Chris’ Car Care, ran a $45 test and told us that the EGR valve sensor had been set off, but that no immediate fix was needed. Even after explaining that I needed this Jeep to get me to Maine, the dude reassured me that it would drive just fine. I can’t say I understand his explanation very well, but I guess I am apprehensively relieved. Fingers crossed!

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We’ve made it to Toronto so far and have been hanging out in and around the city, which reminds me of Chicago but nicer, greener, friendlier, and equally expensive. Stay tuned for future blog posts about our adventures, which will hopefully be about fun things rather than Jeep drama.

Posts about biking Toronto Island and the Bellwoods Brewery are coming up next! I’m also creating a road trip poetry book that will feature haikus, limericks, and other forms of random poetry that I decide to Google and learn how to write.

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Happy trails!

Art from the Road

I am an absolutely terrible artist. You may have heard about a project that I was a founding member of back in 2008, Free Crappy Portraits. The purpose of Free Crappy Portraits (FCP) was to draw strangers in public (with or against their will) and/or from the Internet based on photos they submitted. We kept our clients’ expectations low and never disappointed!

The only art class I took in college was art history. I signed up for a park district painting class a couple years ago and the instructor simply stopped showing up. Although I am a lost cause to the art world, I found my place creating really bad portraits for strangers at no cost.

Today, I carry around a sketch book wherever I go on my travels. Although I my technique is embarrassing  and I have no sense of perspective, I love to draw the versions of things that I see along the road. My recent travels to South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana were no exception. Here are just a few of the awesomely terrible works of road trip art from my sketchbook.

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I call this one “Mt. Gnomemore”. After walking around Mt. Rushmore with my trusty travel gnome, I felt that the roles should be reversed. I think that this is a truly brilliant idea and after Googling it, I am convinced that it is unique to my creation. This may just be my ticket to fame and fortune.

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Created with oil pastels, this is my “Welcome to Montana’ drawing. As we crossed the border from Wyoming into Montana, we were greeted with cows on the side of the road, lakes and rivers in the foreground, mountains in the background, and adorable cabins along the roadside. A night of peaceful camping awaited us across the border.

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This colored pencil sketch is called, “Creatures in the Campground.” We camped at Mammoth Campground in Yellowstone National Park for five nights. Due to the winter season, it was the only campground open at that time and the temperatures often dipped below 20-degrees.

Bison and elk regularly roamed about the campground, incredibly close to our tent and Jeep. Although I was initially terrified to sleep next to these wild creatures (who would surely attack at any moment), I eventually came to trust that they wouldn’t mess with me if I didn’t mess with them.

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Prior to starting this road trip, we bought an inflatable kayak and all the necessary accessories. Although the temperatures were almost always cold and the winds strong, one particular day in the Big Horn National Forest of Wyoming proved to be perfect for boating.

Our first kayaking attempt in the Big Horn Canyon was successful. We didn’t tip over, the kayak didn’t get punctured, and no one got hypothermia. This above photo depicts a painting that I completed while staying in a remote, snowed-in cabin at 9,000+ elevation.

Although I take travel notes and write throughout my trips, my crappy artwork helps me to remember things the way that I first saw them. Although my drawings and paintings could easily be mistake for a five-year-old’s, I love flipping through my sketchbook and making fun of myself from time to time while reminiscing.

Even if you’re an avid photographer or writer, give it a try. What you see in your mind’s eye might provide a more lasting memory than any snapshot could show or words describe. For whatever reason, it does for me.

Adjusting to Life on the Road – Mondakoming #1

Now that I’m finally unrestricted by the 9-5 standard, my boyfriend and I mapped out a rough itinerary to spend the next three weeks or so on a work-cation to Mondakoming (Montana-South Dakota-Wyoming). What exactly is a work-cation you ask? Good question. I’m one week in and just starting to figure it out.

A work-cation means finding free wi-fi whenever and wherever possible. Whether it’s at campgrounds, Dairy Queens, or on the recently-purchased 4G Verizon Jetpack, the Interweb is key for a freelance writer and a online business owner. We take turn driving, depending on who has the most work that needs to get done. I’m starting to accept and embrace being tangled in wires in the passenger seat. I feel hypocritical writing about experiencing nature while being tangled in technology, but I can’t afford to travel and not work. So tangled it is.

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Adjusting to life on the road means being low maintenance. Fortunately, I’m the kind of girl that doesn’t mind missing a daily shower or sleeping in a 20-degree tent. Sure, I might bitch and complain a bit from time to time, but I have full confident that I can make it.

Adjusting means snacking on beans out of a can on the side of the highway in Wyoming. Adjusting means peeing on the side of a trail and keeping a lookout for oncoming traffic. Adjusting means sitting in parking lots until the Internet works. Adjusting means gourmet lunches of cold soup from pop tab cans at the top of a cliff in Billings, Montana. Adjusting is easier than I’d thought it would be, and I can’t imagine wanting to be back “home.”

I feel like my Jeep, Chief Surfs With Manatees, is the happiest he’s ever been since I bought him nearly one year ago (1st birthday party 4/21/13!). We bought a last-minute hitch rack with a rolla bag to haul our camping equipment, inflatable kayak, snowshoes, etc. He makes a hell of a lot more sense out here than in Chicago, and so do I.

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Tomorrow marks the completion of Week #1 of Project Mondakoming. I finally feel that I’ve gotten into my groove and plan to make regular posts about the journey, as much as free WiFi allows. We’ve camped in South Dakota, seen Mt. Rushmore, hiked Black Hills National Forest, hiked Devil’s Tower, hung out in Billings, and done everything in between.

In addition to the daily notes I take, my boyfriend gave me a writing assignment to keep up with every day. I’m writing a 6-8 sentence paragraph everyday about the thing that sticks out to me the most each day. It might not be the most impressive or most significant, but when I think about the one thing that I want to carry with me…that’s my paragraph topic. He’s been taking a crapload of amazing professional photos everyday too, so I’m looking forward to utilizing those in my upcoming posts as well.

It feels great to finally do what I’m supposed to be doing where I’m supposed to be doing it.

To be continued…

One Dark, Dry Night in San José

IMG_1502My boyfriend’s head didn’t explode and my Customs form wasn’t rejected. A wave of relief swept over me as I took the first steps out of the airport in San José, Costa Rica.

IMG_1504Sinus infections and flight chaos were the last things on my mind as I felt the 85-degree heat smack me in the face. I quickly thought and forgot about all those suckers back in negative 85-degree Chicago.

My boyfriend and I were determined to travel like locals and take city buses everywhere to save money and shame. Not unexpectedly, we were bombarded with cab offers the second we walked outside. I guess a white girl and an Indian guy with huge backpacks don’t exactly look like Costa Rican locals.

IMG_1520Utilizing broken Spanish language skills, we quickly found the correct bus stop and hopped on board. Apparently, buses are THE way to get around in San José. They felt clean and safe, and there was a ton of them going in all directions throughout the city. The best part was that a bus ride only cost about $1 USD!

I don’t think I’ll ever pack an oversize wheeled suitcase ever again. Making use of my previously under-used REI backpack was the best decision I could have made. The streets of San José were narrow and crowded. I bumped into enough locals as it was, so I can’t imaging navigating with a monstrosity on wheels.

We exchanged some dollars for colones and strolled the streets in search of cheap grub. There was lots of traffic (mostly scooters) and I nearly died on several occasions crossing the street without looking both ways.

Growing hungrier and crankier, we stopped at some nameless hole-in-the-wall for sandwiches. I nabbed a Costa Rican version of a ham & cheese sandwich and a beer. This was my first experience with Imperial. The light, standard-tasting beer is made in Costa Rica so while I’m a bit of a craft beer snob back home, I drink like the locals when I travel.

Two sandwiches and two beers, plus tip, cost us about 4500 colones….which comes out to about $9 USD. Not bad! The bad ’80’s pop ballad music blasting throughout the basement restaurant was a nice touch as well.

After lunch, we went on a hunt for a place to sleep. Advance research advised us that there were plenty of hostels in San José, so we weren’t overly concerned with booking one in advance during non-peak season.IMG_1569

We picked a hostel called Hotel Musoc and stayed in Room #34, which cost only 10,000 colones ($20 USD) for a private room with a double bed and bathroom. One additional bonus…a baby crib!

IMG_1535When we arrived at Hotel Musoc in the early afternoon, we were told that the electricity was out in the whole neighborhood. The hostel owner held a flashlight over his daughter’s head while she checked our passports and took our money.

The hostel may have been priced so cheaply because it was located directly over an incredibly busy bus terminal. Fortunately, the chaos died down about 9pm, just in time for slumber. That’s about the time that the electricity and running water started working again too.IMG_1541

From that one dark, dry night in San José, I clearly remember the hazy sky, looming clouds obscuring distant mountains, persistent honking of scooters, and constantly being approached by locals asking if we needed directions. With minimal advice, we survived the night and found our way to a 5am bus headed for the Arenal Volcano the next morning.

To be continued…

Why I Need to Go To Moab This Fall

Some of the world’s most stunning red rock landscapes provide a perfect backdrop for events in Moab, Utah. Contrary to popular belief, this outdoor adventure destination has more to offer than mountain biking and whitewater kayaking. Small town hospitality meets resort town luxury in Moab.

If you’re looking to escape some heat and crowds, the fall season is a great time of year to visit Moab. In case you don’t have enough reasons to visit Moab already, here are a few more.

Plein Air Moab – October 4-12

Local and naturally known artists flock to Moab for an extended celebration of painting and drawing in the outdoors. All artists are required to create their masterpieces within fifty miles of downtown, and artwork is auctioned off to the public.

Book Cliff Archaeology – October 5-6

Join outdoor education center, Canyonlands Field Institute for a van tour into the unique Book Cliffs canyons. The canyon is located just north of Moab, and focuses on the archaeology, biology, and geology that formed the area’s dramatic landscape.

Banff Radical Reels Night – October 12

Watch this year’s best adrenaline-pumping films from the Banff Mountain Film Festival and get pumped up for your own adventures. This event is presented by the Friends of La Sal Avalanche Center and takes place at the Grand County High School.

Moab Jeep Jamboree – October 17-19

If you don’t have a Jeep, then don’t even bother showing up! This family-friendly event is a celebration of Jeep enthusiasts from around the nation. Trail ratings are generally 3-9 and new trails are added every year. Both experienced drivers and rookies are sure to enjoy this unique event, which includes six meals, trail guides, spotters, and prizes.

Moab Ho-Down Mountain Bike Festival and Film Fest – October 24-27

For its eighth consecutive year, Moab celebrates two of its biggest passions – bikes and the big screen. Movie screenings are featured Thursday and Friday nights and the races begin on Saturday. The festival wraps up on Sunday with a costume party, live music, and celebration at Moab Brewery.

Photo credit: bhenak via Flickr

Fleeing The Country When The Odds Are Against You

It was 4 AM on a Thursday morning at O’Hare International Airport. I had no trouble waking up at an ungodly time because in just a few hours, I would be playing with monkeys on a beach in Costa Rica.

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I was the most obedient of travelers. I arrived at check-in an hour and a half before departure, I wasn’t carrying any liquids on board, and my passport was armed and ready for action. Surely, this will be an easy morning…no one else is up and going this early, I thought.

To get to O’Hare’s International terminal, you have to take this silly train shuttle from the main airport area. Construction workers thought 4 AM would be a great time to close the track. After a fifteen-minute wait for a train going the opposite direction, I rode the shuttle to the end of the line and back again.

IMG_1498Then came the security check-point line. For no apparent reasons whatsoever, the line refused to move even an inch. Although this wasn’t my first time rushing to catch a flight, it did remind me of a few helpful tips to get on a plane when the odds are against you.

Beg strangers to cut in line

It sounds sexist, but let the girl in the group do the talking. Hold your ticket in your hand and wave it around for dramatic effect. Practice your frantic demeanor ahead of time and start sweating, if possible. Using your sweetest voice, make your way up the line, one by one, convincing everyone to let you pass based upon your departure time.

Avoid fights with TSA agents

You’re in a hurry, but they don’t care. Explaining to a TSA agent that your flight is departing in ten minutes won’t get you anywhere. Even though you want to throw a fist through his/her face, this is generally an unwise choice. Fall in line with the herd of cattle and keep your mouth shut. There’s no way around it, and the alternative results in being hauled off by security guards AND missing your flight.

Split up to check out other security lines

If you have a travel companion, split up to see how the lines are moving at more than one security check point. Mention to your “line neighbors” that you’ll be right back so they won’t raise hell when you jump back in front of them later.

Use cell phones to decide on a line strategy

While split up, keep your cell phone handy to stay in touch with your travel companion about the status of each line you’re monitoring. If your line seems to be shorter or moving quickly, stand your ground and don’t leave it. By the time you run back to your partner to advise of your good fortune, that line will probably be worse than the other.

Wear good running shoes

Even if you’ve been perfectly prepared and arrive well ahead of your departure, unforeseen drama is lurking around every gate. Be prepared by wearing good running shoes, toting around a small carry-on backpack, and not being totally out of shape. You’ll have a much better chance of catching your flight and fleeing of the country if you’re not wobbling on stylish heels with a wheeled suitcase in each hand.

When Customs Forms Get Too Personal

If you’ve ever traveled out of the country, you’ve probably had to fill out a little piece of paper that looks like this:

Customs form

What’s your occupation?

Are you two family?

Where are you staying at your destination?

Are my responses truly essential in ensuring national security? Really, Border Protection….REALLY?!

A couple weeks ago, my boyfriend and I took a trip to Costa Rica. When we booked the trip around Thanksgiving, I had no idea what a milestone it would turn out to be.

After a 6+ year career in the legal field, I finally called it quits. My heart hadn’t been in it for a long time and the nagging feeling that I should be doing something else somewhere else had gotten too much to bear.

On Wednesday at 5:00pm, I bid my emotional goodbyes to the long-time co-workers I cared to say goodbye to. On Thursday at 2:30am, I was on my way to the airport to start the must-procrastinated next chapter of my life.

I didn’t allow myself any time to let my huge decision sink in. I didn’t want to lose momentum with my new-found motivation. I didn’t want to look back and have any regrets.

The plane landed in San Jose, Costa Rica just after noon on Thursday morning. I stared at the blank customs declaration form the flight attendant had given me.

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What IS my occupation?

ARE we family?

And where ARE we staying, anyway?

I scribbled down “writer,” “no,” and “TBD San Jose.” For the past two weeks, I have been pursuing my new career as a full-time freelance writer and it’s going great. For years, I’d been describing myself as a “paralegal”. It was both strange and exhilarating to describe myself as a “writer”.

Although I consider my boyfriend to be family, we are technically not in the eyes of the border patrol. Another awkward and invasive question, in my opinion.

Throughout the trip, we pursued a “winging it” approach. Things had been too planned out lately and we craved spontaneity. We only booked one hostel for nights #2 and 3 in the Arena Volcano area and just figured the rest out along the way. After strolling the streets of San Jose for awhile, we stumbled upon a $10/person hostel above a bus station. More on this in upcoming posts.

While customs forms are simply a nuisance for most people, mine really made me think. A silly government form made me consider my new-found career, my awesome relationship, and the overall tone of the adventure we were just beginning. So thank you, Border Control…I’m finally getting my life figured out and I’m glad you noticed.

*Stay tuned for lots more Costa Rican adventure goodness!

Destinations in India Best Reached by Train

Want to experience the rich culture and traditions of India, but unsure how to navigate this exotic land? Companies like Great Rail Journeys offer options for Rail Tours in India. Most of the rail tours visit the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra, and Japur, but others also travel through southern India and the northern Himalayas.

These are just a few of the things you can see and do on a rail journey. Take the guesswork out of your vacation, relax, and be captivated by the breathtaking surroundings.

India’s Golden Triangle

A trip to India wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the Golden Triangle, which includes Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. This well-travelled route features many of India’s great cultural gems and provides a good spectrum of the country’s varied landscapes. Beautiful palaces, ornate gardens, and colorful markets, bring life to these cities. It’s easy to imagine the life of the Maharajas while marveling at the Taj Mahaj and other magnificent architectural strutures along the way

The Himalayan Mountain Range

The Himalayan range is home to over a hundred mountains and some of the planet’s highest peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest. It is amazing to experience a sunrise over the Himalayans, and one of the best vantage points it is from the mountain top of Sarangkot. As the sun rises, it creates a red-orange glow across the mountains while the valleys below emerge from the shadows. It is a truly breathtaking site.

India’s Natural Wildlife

Ranthambore National Park, one of Northern India’s largest parks, is home to tigers, leopards, and hyenas, crododiles, and sloth bears. Thanks to the efforts of Project Tiger, the park is one of the only places in India where tigers can still be found in the wild. Not to be overshadowed, the vast array of birds, flora, and fauna are unique to this region and some of the most beautiful in the world.

Kerala & Southern India

Emerse yourself in the charming tranquility of Kerala, located in the south-west region of India on the Malabar coast. The inviting sandy beaches separate the sea from the palm tree forests and provide a perfect place to relax. This diverse area offers a unique cultural experience through its festivals, art forms, and exotic cuisine.

Religious Traditions

Hindus flock to the Holy River Ganges at sunrise to cleanse themselves of their sins, creating one of the most spectacular sights in India. One of the world’s major Buddhist centers is located in Sarnath, which is seen as the place where the religion found its roots and where the Buddhist way of life began. By traveling through these areas, you can witness some of the world’s most influential spiritual beliefs first hand.